Where's the dumb questions thread?

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yonderboy
yonderboy's picture

Nishiki wrote:
I hope this is the correct thread for this question.

I want an old steel road bike again. Is this Nishiki Altron worth $475? I don't want the tublar rim option they're pushing, I am aware of the pitfalls of this vs. STI newbike. But if you *wanted* downtube vintage steel bike, is this worth it? to be clear: I owned a very similar nishiki. it was tange 2 but parts were similar

https://i.imgur.com/rCjqr4y.jpg

archived craigslist ad: http://archive.is/OZY66

Dunno. If that's a legit tricolor group, it could be flipped for around $120.

I owned a Nishiki of that vintage, but it was never my favorite to ride. The geometry always seemed weird to me.

Edit: quoted for new page

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 00:41
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture
(Reply to #2302)

Nishiki wrote:
EDIT: the own claims this bike is "the sweet" spot

Quote:
But 1989 was the sweet spot. 700C wheels, Tange Prestige "Fully Chromed" frame and fork, artfully made in Kobe, Japan. Monostay seatstay. Internal cable routing on top tube. Shimano 600 Ultegra drivetrain.

This year Altron is considered the best ever made and is definitely the one you want. Collectors in the know hang on to these, and fine frame builders like Rivendell and Soma still use Tange Prestige steel today.

So, a little better than garbage?

"Folks want options!"

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 01:23
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

Yeah what do you want an old frame for? You don't unless it's a really nice frame.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 01:26
ckd
ckd's picture

You should just get an Endpoint.

Spencer Raleigh, Medical Panini

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 12:22
Viggen
Viggen's picture

I think that's a bit overpriced for a Nishiki frame... Sure the paint is TAF and all.

I bought my Somec for less than 250$, still just a frame and fork. But a TIGed steel frame in high quality Columbus steel is way better than some half real deal Nishiki.. I'd buy a used Gunnar Roadie, Black Mountain Cycles, Genisis Volare or Equilibrium or just about any of the bigger brands who did quality work back in the mid 90's.

Whippin Skidz wrote:
This is tarck, there is a complicated solution to everything and we will endlessly discuss until an agreed upon solution has been tabled. This is out of your hands now.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 12:25
deadforkinglast
deadforkinglast's picture

Yeah I'd rather have a newer used thing for that price or thereabouts. There's nothing so special about that bike that would cause it to go up in value. I saw the same thing when I was in LA, where every asshole with an 80's steel frame had a vintage collectible from the best era of that manufacturer. Everything looks nice because the bikes never see rain, so it's easy to get them to photograph well.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 14:55
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture
(Reply to #2307)

eric_ssucks wrote:
Yeah what do you want an old frame for? You don't unless it's a really nice frame.

I've never been excited about vintage anything, but with bikes it seems especially misguided to hunt down older models. For road bikes, I can sort of get having wanted an older bike during the super stiff / narrow-is-aero design era, but nowadays, enough new models are correcting back to general rideability with better tech (and manufacturing tolerances) that there's just not much of a case for it.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 15:03
aek
aek's picture

I agree with all of the above sentiment, but I'm not gonna lie, I bought my Telekom for more than it's worth as a bike purely for its paint scheme. I bet side by side it doesn't even ride as nicely as my stolen Zero-Uno, but it's my favourite and I don't care.

That Nishiki is not one of those bikes, though.

doofo wrote:
tarck eats ur soul one lol at a time

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 17:02
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

Yeah, have an 80s Davidson custom that is one of the nicest riding bikes I've experienced, but it's a custom from a good builder, not a nishiki or univega or something.

Should build it up even though it's a bit small for me.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 17:56
liquify
liquify's picture

By your own logic, and that of others above, building it up would be a waste of money.

Re: nikshiki- Talk him down. Fuck the haters. Enjoy the bike.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 19:26
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture
(Reply to #2311)

liquify wrote:
By your own logic, and that of others above, building it up would be a waste of money.

Re: nikshiki- Talk him down. Fuck the haters. Enjoy the bike.

Yeah, that's why it's still in the back of the closet next to the woset.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 19:48
liquify
liquify's picture

Well, selling it wouldn't be a waste of money, would it?

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 20:11
Sneaky Viking
Sneaky Viking's picture

I have a saved search on Fuji Opuses on ebay. They occasionally go for way more than I'd expect. My point is the Japanese manufacturers' high end stuff is still somewhat in demand, which something like this TAF full chromed one would be. Is it overpriced? Sure. I'd look for a threadless steel Lemond. But whatever, that paint and chrome is dope.

ckd wrote:
I mean, seriously. We're just a bunch of washed up bicycle burnout dipshits.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 20:12
deadforkinglast
deadforkinglast's picture
(Reply to #2314)

liquify wrote:
By your own logic, and that of others above, building it up would be a waste of money.

Re: nikshiki- Talk him down. Fuck the haters. Enjoy the bike.

If it were $300 or even $350, that would be fine. It's not a shitty bike, it's just not worth much money.

Sun, 11/26/2017 - 21:22
Larry Winget
Larry Winget's picture
(Reply to #2315)

deadforkinglast wrote:
liquify wrote:
By your own logic, and that of others above, building it up would be a waste of money.

Re: nikshiki- Talk him down. Fuck the haters. Enjoy the bike.

If it were $300 or even $350, that would be fine. It's not a shitty bike, it's just not worth much money.

Right, and factor in the cost of building/buying suitable clinchers.

The Pitbull of Personal Development®

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 00:31
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture
(Reply to #2316)

Quote:
fine frame builders like Rivendell and Soma

fuckin lulz

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 16:50
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture
(Reply to #2317)

aek wrote:
I agree with all of the above sentiment, but I'm not gonna lie, I bought my Telekom for more than it's worth as a bike purely for its paint scheme. I bet side by side it doesn't even ride as nicely as my stolen Zero-Uno, but it's my favourite and I don't care.

That Nishiki is not one of those bikes, though.

I really want an older Trek for similar irony points. Or a Saeco CAAD8.

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 17:02
euflavine
euflavine's picture

I have a Shimano 9000 Pioneer PM crank with standard chainrings, but want to toss mid-compact or compact chainrings on there.

I'm having some trouble confirming compatibility and locating chainrings to do so. It seems like just getting a whole other 105 or Ultegra crankset is a better deal ($100-120 vs more than that for just a big ring separately) than actually buying a new big and small ring separately. Just so I'm 100% sure, if I get a 105 5800 crank with the respective chainrings, will that mate with my existing 9000 crank without issues?

Fri, 12/08/2017 - 10:38
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

DA chainrings all have the same bolt pattern. Go wild. Probably selling your DA 9K used and just buying an ultra ortega crankset is a break even proposition. The 5800 should mate up, cuz shimano, but it may not, cuz shimano.

Fri, 12/08/2017 - 17:14
yonderboy
yonderboy's picture

I haven't found any noticeable difference in the different grades of chainrings, other than price. You'd probably be good with ordering a compact set of the asym 105 rings off Universal/Jenson/etc.

That said, I also have a bunch of mismatched cranks in my pile, because I'm a 110 BCD 5-bolt deadender.

Sat, 12/09/2017 - 12:51
Shortpants
Shortpants's picture

supremely stupid question but hear me out. I'm probably going to buy a new group for my bullitt, probably from Wiggle. There's a cheap slx 2x11 group on there right now but its right hand front/left hand rear. Prebled doesn't matter to me because it's a cargo bike and I have to put 8ft hose on there anyway. There's nothing stopping me from swapping which lever actuates which brake, right? Like there's not some super fancy shimano thing where the lever intended for the rear does something different than the one intended for the front?

Just checking before I drop $500 on this stupid group.

Sat, 12/09/2017 - 19:50
aerobear
aerobear's picture
(Reply to #2322)

Shortpants wrote:
supremely stupid question but hear me out. I'm probably going to buy a new group for my bullitt, probably from Wiggle. There's a cheap slx 2x11 group on there right now but its right hand front/left hand rear. Prebled doesn't matter to me because it's a cargo bike and I have to put 8ft hose on there anyway. There's nothing stopping me from swapping which lever actuates which brake, right? Like there's not some super fancy shimano thing where the lever intended for the rear does something different than the one intended for the front?

Just checking before I drop $500 on this stupid group.

Nope, you just swap which hose is plugged into which lever. The only difference in what they're selling is that they are pre-cut hoses already attached to the brakes and the "front" has a much shorter hose.

crowding wrote:
Every time i eat Dick's I just wind up disappointed that I'm not getting In-n-Out.

Sat, 12/09/2017 - 20:11
Shortpants
Shortpants's picture

I assumed so but had to double check. Man I was just riding around and had another dumb question but can't remember it right now.

Sat, 12/09/2017 - 23:31
liquify
liquify's picture

You may be able to swap levers and not have to rebleed the rear.
But shimano is stupid easy so. It is not a big deal.

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 00:00
bward1028

DQ: does anyone make a 1" (Threadless hopefully) disc fork, esp for 26" wheels?
Followup: that would work ok on a tandem?
I'd really like to get at least a front disc on this thing but it doesn't seem to be possible without going custom.

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 12:20
Goddamnit Gunther
Goddamnit Gunther's picture

I had to spend a long time looking for a 1” threadless 26er fork before it happened. But a 1” threadless 26er dick fork?
Thats a fuckin unicorn

Endpoint wrote:
turdly buttways

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 13:46
bward1028

i guess i could use something like a Polyvalent fork

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 14:00
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture
(Reply to #2328)

eric_ssucks wrote:
DA chainrings all have the same bolt pattern. Go wild. Probably selling your DA 9K used and just buying an ultra ortega crankset is a break even proposition. The 5800 should mate up, cuz shimano, but it may not, cuz shimano.

Can’t speak for what will will not work with the 11s stuff but we did find out the hard way that an Ultegra ring absolutely will NOT work on a new Tiagra asym 4 bolt crank. Ring “fits” but spider tab thickness is different enough that shifting was a no-go.

I would absolutely measure things before putting down cash.

Sun, 12/10/2017 - 15:43
wickedwagon
wickedwagon's picture

I've got 2 piece fsa Omega cranks, the 4 arm cranks on new bikes that I rode for a couple rides loose and since then they seem to come loose every other ride. The splines don't have damage from what I tell. Would loctite fix this?

jordanpattern wrote:
BRING ME THE BINDERS OF WOMEN!

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 22:06
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture

Can’t hurt to try. Clean all threads and try some 248 on pinch bolts and pre-loader.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 22:08
ckd
ckd's picture
(Reply to #2331)

bward1028 wrote:
DQ: does anyone make a 1" (Threadless hopefully) disc fork, esp for 26" wheels?
Followup: that would work ok on a tandem?
I'd really like to get at least a front disc on this thing but it doesn't seem to be possible without going custom.

Followup to your followup: suspension corrected or no?

I'd just get this.

Spencer Raleigh, Medical Panini

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 22:47
aerobear
aerobear's picture

megaexo or bb30 version?
typically shouldn't need loctite on either of those splines..

shouldn't be pinch bolts on either style..

crowding wrote:
Every time i eat Dick's I just wind up disappointed that I'm not getting In-n-Out.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 22:48
oogens
oogens's picture
(Reply to #2333)

ckd wrote:
bward1028 wrote:
DQ: does anyone make a 1" (Threadless hopefully) disc fork, esp for 26" wheels?
Followup: that would work ok on a tandem?
I'd really like to get at least a front disc on this thing but it doesn't seem to be possible without going custom.

Followup to your followup: suspension corrected or no?

I'd just get this.

extremely DQ: was considering this fork for an old frame that's sitting unused. If i clamp the legs much lower (so it's typical road/track a-c), it shouldn't be any more prone to snapping my headtube off, right?

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 04:16
euflavine
euflavine's picture

Here's my once every two-year post asking if anyone knows if you can purchase these extra 27.2 clamps.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 12:14
yonderboy
yonderboy's picture
(Reply to #2335)

aerobear wrote:
megaexo or bb30 version?
typically shouldn't need loctite on either of those splines..

shouldn't be pinch bolts on either style..

The last MegaEXO cranks I bought had amber Loctite in the box and instructions to use it on the splines. ¯\_(O_o)_/¯

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 13:17
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture
(Reply to #2336)

euflavine wrote:
Here's my once every two-year post asking if anyone knows if you can purchase these extra 27.2 clamps.

I can’t find a line on these. But, Salsa makes the same thing with rack mounts added on.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 14:02
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture
(Reply to #2337)

Endpoint wrote:
eric_ssucks wrote:
DA chainrings all have the same bolt pattern. Go wild. Probably selling your DA 9K used and just buying an ultra ortega crankset is a break even proposition. The 5800 should mate up, cuz shimano, but it may not, cuz shimano.

Can’t speak for what will will not work with the 11s stuff but we did find out the hard way that an Ultegra ring absolutely will NOT work on a new Tiagra asym 4 bolt crank. Ring “fits” but spider tab thickness is different enough that shifting was a no-go.

I would absolutely measure things before putting down cash.

I would guess that 5800 to 9000 11-speed will probably work, but Tiagra and below is it's own beast. That said, I'd recommend matching shimano parts groups unless you want to spend a bunch of time dicking around figuring out what fits.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 14:36
wickedwagon
wickedwagon's picture
(Reply to #2338)

aerobear wrote:
megaexo or bb30 version?
typically shouldn't need loctite on either of those splines..

shouldn't be pinch bolts on either style..

Megaexo. No pinch bolts with 19mm spindle.
These

jordanpattern wrote:
BRING ME THE BINDERS OF WOMEN!

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 14:50
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

19nm FSA bottom brackets are the only thing worse than BB30.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 15:24
cousinmosquito
cousinmosquito's picture
(Reply to #2340)

Certainly my one was is a piece of poo. Short bearing life and flimsy plastic parts.

More wonderful than you can believe it

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 16:01
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

I think the right answer is a shimano crankset from across the atlantic. By the time you are done buying loctite and re-torquing everything you could have a 5800 jawn and a bottom bracket that is better in every way.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 16:09
bward1028
(Reply to #2342)

Endpoint wrote:
euflavine wrote:
Here's my once every two-year post asking if anyone knows if you can purchase these extra 27.2 clamps.

I can’t find a line on these. But, Salsa makes the same thing with rack mounts added on.

Origin8 makes/made one that is a seat binder and a post clamp. I've held it in my hand but can no longer find it on the internet.
this exists though- https://www.ebay.com/itm/GORILLA-PARK-Double-Seatpost-Clamp-27-2mm-BIKE-BLACK/331905836460?hash=item4d472125ac:g:fuMAAOxyD9JSBEQp
just search ebay for "double seatpost"

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 17:54
mdilthey
mdilthey's picture

DQ: What is this thing for? I can’t get my head around it!

26/M/41t N/W

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 18:52
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture

Stops sloppy seat sticks from slipping south.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 19:14
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Also easy set up if traveling with the bike

"Folks want options!"

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 19:21
aerobear
aerobear's picture
(Reply to #2346)

yonderboy wrote:
aerobear wrote:
megaexo or bb30 version?
typically shouldn't need loctite on either of those splines..

shouldn't be pinch bolts on either style..

The last MegaEXO cranks I bought had amber Loctite in the box and instructions to use it on the splines. ¯\_(O_o)_/¯

I mean, the newer mega exo stuff is akin to a gxp or isis style spline. I guess I don't get why you'd put anything but grease on the splines. It compresses into place. If it's able to get tight enough without bottoming out, it should stay tight. If it's bottoming out, then you're fucked and I don't see how thread locker is going to help you. But.. this is FSA we're talking about..

crowding wrote:
Every time i eat Dick's I just wind up disappointed that I'm not getting In-n-Out.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 20:26
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture

A few years ago FSA was having people install their carbon mega-exo cranks with amber or green loctite.

I deal with a few of these cranks on customer bikes that are some how still on service and the loctite works.

Of course, this is not the same stuff for threads. It also works well with creaky headset cups and crank/spiders with weird oblong splined interfaces like Rotor, Cannondale, Sram and Race Face.

If it’s the same spline interface as the recent Energy and Gossamer cranks that ditched the pinch bolts there’s a pretty good chance this will work.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 20:55
wickedwagon
wickedwagon's picture
(Reply to #2348)

eric_ssucks wrote:
I think the right answer is a shimano crankset from across the atlantic. By the time you are done buying loctite and re-torquing everything you could have a 5800 jawn and a bottom bracket that is better in every way.

I expected this, but want looking forward to it.

jordanpattern wrote:
BRING ME THE BINDERS OF WOMEN!

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 22:23
Face
Face's picture

DQ? What was that source of inexpensive non-chamois tights? Rowing supply something, I don't remember the name. It's getting too cold to ride in shorts and I threw my 15 year old leg warmers in the trash.

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Wed, 12/13/2017 - 00:59
Blakey
Blakey's picture
(Reply to #2350)

Face wrote:
DQ? What was that source of inexpensive non-chamois tights? Rowing supply something, I don't remember the name. It's getting too cold to ride in shorts and I threw my 15 year old leg warmers in the trash.

https://www.jlathletics.com/bargain-tights.html?id=11328202&quantity=1

Wed, 12/13/2017 - 01:21

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