Where's the dumb questions thread?

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NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

New shimano is almost always better than old shimano. I don't know anyone who has ult8000 though

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 14:17
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

I was expecting some discounts as new Ultegra rolled put, but the price on RS685 has gone up, over the past few months.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 14:28
Todd
Todd's picture

Would the mass of a rider decrease the length of the service interval on a shock over a smaller rider?

Another way to ask...

Would deeper compression, and higher internal pressure, cause increased wear to seals and swipers?

just curious.

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 21:07
jeffro
jeffro's picture
(Reply to #2154)

Todd wrote:
Would the mass of a rider decrease the length of the service interval on a shock over a smaller rider?

Another way to ask...

Would deeper compression, and higher internal pressure, cause increased wear to seals and swipers?

just curious.

That seems hard to isolate. I'd think all the weird torsional and side loads a big guy puts on the frame would be the bigger culprits to shortening shock life span, whacking the sealy bits with off axis forces.

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 22:03
guccipolo

I think that it would come down to proper shock setup more than rider mass.

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 22:49
Todd
Todd's picture
(Reply to #2156)

guccipolo wrote:
I think that it would come down to proper shock setup more than rider mass.

can you expand on this?

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 23:30
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Roundabout has a XL Haanjo for sale, doesn't he?

Is 8020 that much better? Not really.

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 00:07
Sneaky Viking
Sneaky Viking's picture
(Reply to #2158)

motorbacon wrote:
Roundabout has a XL Haanjo for sale, doesn't he?

old man wants carbon. water is wet.

ckd wrote:
I mean, seriously. We're just a bunch of washed up bicycle burnout dipshits.

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 10:08
shane.rrr
shane.rrr's picture

SO I am unprepared and forgot I signed up for a 100 mile bike race in a national forest that takes place in a week and half. I haven't ridden much the last month or two for various reasons. I am more worried about the amount of climbing which is supposed to be 7000 feet of climbing. The race is supposed to be a big portion gravel/doubletrack, small amount of single track and the rest is rural pavement.

I am planning on riding my Grando which currently has a 46t/33t Chainring and a 11-36 cassette in the back. Should I try and swap on my 11-42t cassette from my MTB to try and get those extra climbing gears or just use what I have on there?

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 11:54
cheese
cheese's picture
(Reply to #2160)

Todd wrote:
guccipolo wrote:
I think that it would come down to proper shock setup more than rider mass.

can you expand on this?

If the suspension design and linkage surrounding the shock is correct, the spring and shock itself will only ever see on-axis loads, within the acceptable travel range. There shouldn't be any side load or torsion or whatever, because the design of the suspension should ideally prevent motion in those directions.

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 13:56
VT regularbike
VT regularbike's picture

I think it would more have to do with bottoming out the shock. As long as it's setup to run through a normal range most of the time vs being setup too soft for a bigger dude and hard bottoming the shock all the time it should be fine unless you're having to run pressures in the shock that exceed the maximum unloaded pressure in order to do so.

Miguel wrote:
i mean as long as we're spending money, lets just set the wallet on fire ok

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 19:14
cheese
cheese's picture

But that should be addressed with a bump stop, to limit loaded travel before the shock itself bottoms out.

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 19:40
VT regularbike
VT regularbike's picture

Still not good for the shock.

Miguel wrote:
i mean as long as we're spending money, lets just set the wallet on fire ok

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 19:56
kmcdon
kmcdon's picture
(Reply to #2164)

shane.rrr wrote:
SO I am unprepared and forgot I signed up for a 100 mile bike race in a national forest that takes place in a week and half. I haven't ridden much the last month or two for various reasons. I am more worried about the amount of climbing which is supposed to be 7000 feet of climbing. The race is supposed to be a big portion gravel/doubletrack, small amount of single track and the rest is rural pavement.

I am planning on riding my Grando which currently has a 46t/33t Chainring and a 11-36 cassette in the back. Should I try and swap on my 11-42t cassette from my MTB to try and get those extra climbing gears or just use what I have on there?

I think that if you're not riding with a load on, you'll be just fine with 33/36. If you swap it might be more inclined to ride slower, but since you're already lower than 1:1 I feel like you'll be fine.

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 00:01
jdsmooth
jdsmooth's picture

If 33x36 doesn't get you up the hill, walk it. Can be restorative.

Five-foot drops at speed on unstable terrain? Yep.

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 12:38
shane.rrr
shane.rrr's picture

Yeah i ain't fucking with it. Just leaving the 36 on there. I'll walk it if I need to do.

Here is the Strava track for the race

Wed, 09/27/2017 - 12:58
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Dude.
Are you gonna ride through Nada Tunnel?

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Wed, 09/27/2017 - 16:44
shane.rrr
shane.rrr's picture
(Reply to #2168)

Yeah totally am! Actually the race rules require lights because of the tunnel.

I have not ridden enough the last month or two. I rode last night and felt so out of shape compared to where I was this summer. This race is going to hurt.

Thu, 09/28/2017 - 09:29
chazzwazzer
chazzwazzer's picture

I've got a Trek ALR and when I bought it I had them put in whatever Shimano press fit they had at the shop. Its been creaking for a bit but over the past couple days has become unbearable.

Is the threaded Wheels Mfg unit what I want?

Mon, 10/02/2017 - 23:28
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture

I've used both the `ABEC-3` and `angular contact bearing` versions of the Wheels Mfg. BB30-OUT and have never been unhappy or displeased.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 13:34
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Bb86.

No options. Yay Trek.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 14:26
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture

Ouch. Sorry about that! Dumb answer for the dumb questions thread, I guess

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 14:30
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Are you 100% sure it's not seatpost, seatpost clamp, headset, QR or saddle related?

Does it do it standing or seated? If you grab the nose and tail of the saddle and rock it does it make noise?

60-70% of the time a customer complains about bb noise it's something else. Half of those are headset realted. A quarter of them seatpost/seatpost clamp/saddle related and the remaining percentage fslls into the wheel/hub/pedal/dropouts/chainring/cracked frame category.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 14:38
Face
Face's picture

0.01% are dangler clutch.

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 15:57
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

100% are resolved by throwing the bike away and buying a new one.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 16:37
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

My favorite recent creak that still occasionally freaks me out:
Bottom of Safety Pizza barely scraping against top of the rear fender.

Sounds exactly like a BB creak.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 16:49
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Take a bite out of that pizza

"Folks want options!"

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 16:50
ckd
ckd's picture
(Reply to #2178)

eric_ssucks wrote:
100% are resolved by throwing the bike away and buying a new one.

Or buying noise canceling headphones

-is a sandwich
-is a REAL doctor

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 21:47
aerobear
aerobear's picture
(Reply to #2179)

motorbacon wrote:
Bb86.

No options. Yay Trek.

??
BB86 is not a trek thing and there are tons of bb options for it.

crowding wrote:
Every time i eat Dick's I just wind up disappointed that I'm not getting In-n-Out.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 22:52
aerobear
aerobear's picture
(Reply to #2180)

jamesacklin wrote:
I've used both the `ABEC-3` and `angular contact bearing` versions of the Wheels Mfg. BB30-OUT and have never been unhappy or displeased.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/wheels-mfg-bb86-92-shimano-bottom-bracket-with-abec-3-bearings-threaded

Here's what you suggested, just in an option compatible with a trek alr.

crowding wrote:
Every time i eat Dick's I just wind up disappointed that I'm not getting In-n-Out.

Tue, 10/03/2017 - 22:54
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture
(Reply to #2181)

ckd wrote:
eric_ssucks wrote:
100% are resolved by throwing the bike away and buying a new one.

Or buying noise canceling headphones

Or getting a set of speakers so you can share your jamzzz with everyone else.

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 02:00
sparksflyhigh
sparksflyhigh's picture

BB90 is the Trek one

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 02:39
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture
(Reply to #2183)

aerobear wrote:
motorbacon wrote:
Bb86.

No options. Yay Trek.

??
BB86 is not a trek thing and there are tons of bb options for it.

Didnt mean it was only Trek, just the ALR. Should I have been clearer and said 'yay alr?'

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 04:24
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture

I left some words out, I think. I've had good times with Wheels bottom brackets, but only with the outboard BB-30 version.

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 09:48
chazzwazzer
chazzwazzer's picture

Thanks all. It may have indeed been something else, I’ll know when I ride to work in a minute.

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 12:22
chazzwazzer
chazzwazzer's picture

Fixed it. I tightened the rear QR and it got a little better. Then I remembered that the dropout hanger screws backed out awhile ago and I had replaced them. So I took the hanger off, put some grease on the face, screwed it back in and tightened the rear QR down. Silent now. It totally sounded like it came from the BB and only squawked when I pushed the cranks. Glad it's not a BB issue.

Thu, 10/05/2017 - 22:11
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Dq: non Internet forum savvy buddy is looking at a fatbike for his winter training in southern Oregon. Any fatbike users have details on the best value?

"Folks want options!"

Fri, 10/06/2017 - 02:37
cousinmosquito
cousinmosquito's picture

I know the subject of the 11 speed cassette that works on the 10 speed hub has come up a few times, but I can never find it when I need to.
Can someone confirm some things. Its called the HG800, and is 11-34 ?
It will fit on a road 10 speed hub ?
Does it come in any other sprocket-ways ? Like an 11-27 ?
cheers

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 19:53
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Hg800(0) 11-34 is the only one that fits 10s.

All other 11 speed 11-32 and smaller do not, unless you pull a cog out.

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 20:02
liquify
liquify's picture

Only 11-34 to use your road dangler.
Otherwise you are in shimano mtb with tanpan or the roadlink territory. .

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 20:06
cousinmosquito
cousinmosquito's picture
(Reply to #2191)

Yeah was gonna pull the cog until I heard of the HG800. Its for a friend.
Hes gonna need the 34 right now anyway.
Thanks.

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 20:15
Sneaky Viking
Sneaky Viking's picture
(Reply to #2192)

NOVELTYNAME wrote:
Dq: non Internet forum savvy buddy is looking at a fatbike for his winter training in southern Oregon. Any fatbike users have details on the best value?

Buddy bought the Raleigh Rumson cos 197/150 spacing and 4.9 tires. He's pretty happy with it. They only have S and M left but they're on sale.

ckd wrote:
I mean, seriously. We're just a bunch of washed up bicycle burnout dipshits.

Thu, 10/12/2017 - 21:43
LurkeyLurkerson

Will a rival 22 front mech work with my 10 speed group without excessive amounts of chain rub?

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 10:22
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

If you set up Yaw correctly, you should have no chain rub whatsoever.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 10:42
ThurberMingus
ThurberMingus's picture

My framebuilder buddy is going to build me a frame around a track wheelset I have. How wide of tires can you run with 120 rear spacing?

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 11:34
euclid
euclid's picture

120 mm tires. unless you want to deflate them to put the wheels in.

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 12:04
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture

How many skid patches does a Surly Larry have?

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 12:12
drwelby
drwelby's picture

42 chainline minus 4mm for the chain is 38 per side, so from a chain standpoint 72mm.

The restriction is going to be clearance between the chainring, chainstay, and tire, so you'd need to draw that up to see what fits.

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 12:14
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Build it around 35s and fenders and a Low trail fork for a porteur rack. Don’t do a stupid high bb track bike either.

"Folks want options!"

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 13:44
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture
(Reply to #2200)

NOVELTYNAME wrote:
Build it around 35s and fenders and a Low trail fork for a porteur rack. Don’t do a stupid high bb track bike either.

Solid advice for life in general

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 14:22

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