Problem Solvers Sheldon Nuts X SKS fenders

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Larry Winget
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Problem Solvers Sheldon Nuts X SKS fenders

I used these for mounting SKS P-35s on my Charge Juicer because I wanted the ability to quickly remove the front fender for roof racking, then re-install. I thought I might use them for fronts on two bikes, but I ended up using both because the vertical threads though the seatstay bridge for direct mounting the rear fender were chewed up and I didn't want a bolt head messing with my tire clearance. Clearing gunk out of the bolt head from an awkward angle to de-install was not appealing either.

The front setup works more or less like a charm. Undo the bolt, pop the stays out of the Secu-Clips and roof rack away sans front fender. Reversing the process takes a little longer as you have to line up the tips of the stays with both Secu-Clips and pop the whole mess in together. I'm sure I'll get better at it with more practice. It's a little bit of hassle, but having real full coverage fenders that don't rattle (in my case with long mudflaps) that travel well on a roof rack is pretty great. I bought a little wrench to tweak the stay eyebolts just in case, but I never needed it. Once the stay ends were popped fully into the Secu-Clips and the bolt tightened down in the Sheldon Nut everything lined up perfectly.

My only complaints are minor ones. I know it's a specialty product and all but $16 is a little ridiculous for Sheldon Nuts, particularly since they don't come with bolts, but those were like $1.20 at the LHS because I sprung for fancy stainless ones. Also, SKS's eyebolt system for attaching stays to the fenders is a little fussy, but I knew that from my previous experiences with them.

I may do this again for my Cross Check and my wife's Jamis (both already sporting SKS fenders), but this time it would be to allow fork crown mounted dynamo lights to stay put/adjusted while the fenders come on and off. I should be able to split a set of Sheldon Nuts for that.

Sat, 01/18/2014 - 19:51
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

Pro tip: You can run a good spiral-point M6 tap through the back of any steel brake nut to make your own Sheldon-style nut. Use a bench vice and some cutting fluid, and simply force the tap into the 5mm allen head side. I usually only do this in a pinch, when a Sheldon nut won't work or isn't available, because it only works well about 75% of the time (not a bad percentage, considering most shops have accumulated hundreds of these and they're essentially disposable).

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Sun, 01/19/2014 - 12:05
mander
mander's picture

^^ Awesome, thanks for this tip.

Wed, 01/22/2014 - 22:19
Blakey
Blakey's picture

Could you use a wingnutbolt to hold the fender to the sheldon nut? Depends on fork clearance I guess.

I've got them on a couple of bikes, more useful on the front than the rear IMHO. I used the extra long one on the kinesis carbon fork, just the trick.

I'll def try tapping a recessed nut in future too.

Wed, 01/22/2014 - 22:26
Larry Winget
Larry Winget's picture

Yes, I've considered the wingnutbolt idea. Have not tried yet though.

The Pitbull of Personal Development®

Wed, 01/22/2014 - 22:49
mander
mander's picture

Because it's somewhat on topic: I used a Sheldon nut to add a shit load more clearance to a honjo daruma. That held fine with liberal use of loctite. Basically instead of snugging a nut up on the inside of the fender, you are now turning an Allen bolt, which goes into the Sheldon nut, which is attached to the Honjo daruma bolt. In my case one of those frenchy rubber handlebar plugs surrounded by washers sat on the outside of this superdaruma and pressed against the outside of the fender, but i saw a picture where a guy used a stack of fiberglass washers instead.

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 11:43
b-roll
b-roll's picture

Probably academic and obvious, but some red LocTite on the threads of the brake bolt will keep the whole setup from unthreading when you take off the fender.

/obviousguy

"You know it's dumb. I know it's dumb. But fuck it, I still love it."

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 13:16
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

Similarly, I used a Sheldon nut the other day on a guy's Kona Jake the Snake. I realized that the crazy-fat crown was actually repurposed from a road fork, and was molded for a recessed brake bolt. So I found a decently long M5 allen, ran it into the Sheldon nut, and was able to mount the fender extremely clearly, without having to run an equally crazy-long bolt-and-nut situation, with the fender tab rubbing directly against the carbon. Turned out extremely clean. 'Just a situation where a Sheldon night might not have been expected, but worked awesomely.

Also, Loctite is a must on fender bolts, but I think Blue 242 is a better choice than Red. Red can be extremely hard to disassemble, whereas Blue 242 is "particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing," which better describes a bicycle IMO.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 16:27
b-roll
b-roll's picture

If I expect to take it apart sooner than 6 months, I do the blue. Who knows--my tubes of Loctite are so old they may be serving only psychological purposes.

It's a shame Sheldon's name couldn't be associated with a more commonly recognized part. At least this one is commonly used.

"You know it's dumb. I know it's dumb. But fuck it, I still love it."

Sun, 01/26/2014 - 19:11