Tarck Arts and Carfts. Post your home-built bikey stuff.

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iwillbe
iwillbe's picture
(Reply to #551)

drwelby wrote:
Made a bike wallet thing, basically a low profile feed bag that won't hit my knees and can hold my phone and couple snack bars.

I'm interested to see how you like having it configured flush to the stem for knee clearance. My knees come pretty close to the headset when I'm out of the saddle, and I've wondered if it would be better to have the bag flatten to the back of the bar. These folks had the same idea as you, different orientation: http://www.bedrockbags.com/gear/tapeats-handlebar-bag

All music is just the Eagles with different geometry.

Tue, 10/17/2017 - 19:11
joy of vaping
joy of vaping's picture

I've never hit my knee on a feedbag what are y'all doin??

Tue, 10/17/2017 - 19:56
drwelby
drwelby's picture

Climbing out of the saddle on a drop bar bike?

The bike wallet is perfect, I don't even touch it with my knees. It does benefit that I'm running a 120 stem - with a shorter stem the wallet would hang off the back and I wouldn't want to find out how effective a steering-limiting chock my phone is. I could make it narrower - it's sized to fit a Field Notes notebook which is wider than my phone.

The Bedrock bag reminds me of those molle ammo dump bags.

Tue, 10/17/2017 - 20:00
Perlhammered
Perlhammered's picture

I def hit my knee on my stem bag (Road Runner) when I'm out of the saddle. It's annoying, for sure.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 08:53
shane.rrr
shane.rrr's picture

I don't hit my knee on feed bags either. Yall riding tiny bikes or got extra long legs?

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 09:25
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture

In my case, long legs, but also a custom bike (62cm tt!!), everything's where it's supposed to be. How the hell do your knees not sweep up past your headset when you're out of the saddle?

Bedrock make some cool looking stuff, if I hadn't already bought some Revelate bags, I'd give some of their pieces a try.

All music is just the Eagles with different geometry.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 09:41
Perlhammered
Perlhammered's picture

I've got long femurs and like to ride frames with a short-ish TT

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 10:53
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture
(Reply to #558)

Perlhammered wrote:
I've got long femurs and like to ride frames with a short-ish TT

the human body is a mystery

All music is just the Eagles with different geometry.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 11:25
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

I have short femurs and ride long top tubes and I hit my knee on my feedbag, occasionally.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 11:36
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture

this is an order of magnitude less impressive than the people making their own bags and light mounts, but here's a thing I did with my Xtracycle that made it work better:

bought a big pickup truck tailgate net, took the running board off the back of the bike, put it back on with the bottom of the net sandwiched between it and the rails. Pulled net up and over the rails, zip tied it in a couple of places. The net has an elastic band on its edge, so it stays up okay on its own, and I can lower the right side for when my kid wants to sit side-saddle (the purple webbing strap is a sub-strap to keep her from sliding down).
it works ok for keeping light stuff like blankets and frisbees up top, and stabilizes grocery bags and backpacks pretty well. I did this because I griped a lot about how the Edgerunner can't haul big things unless you put them into the side bags. This sort of fixes that problem.

Also, $8 patio furniture cushions with velcro tape on the underside work fine in place of the $50 running board pad, according to my kid.

All music is just the Eagles with different geometry.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 12:42
chazzwazzer
chazzwazzer's picture
(Reply to #561)

JUGE FREDD wrote:
the new low-height design has the eyelet pretty far back, is it behind the OEM eyelet?

just thinking about the light's center of gravity for slippage under vibration

(but hanging from behind-center is much better than being in front of it)

Currently yeah it is, that’s a good point. I’ve got a couple more revisions and then I’ll start testing them.

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 12:52
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Fender extender part deux.
Untitled by rudyluciani, on Flickr

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 09:55
Face
Face's picture

Nice

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 10:07
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

wow, perfect width match!

edit: wait, is it from old yellow fender or custom cut plastic material?

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 13:41
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

It's a chunk I chopped off an old PB cascadia 26" fender.

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 14:33
jamey
jamey's picture

YO DAWG I HEARD YOU LIKE FENDERS

truckdoug "never turn down free beer, dont stick your dick where you wouldnt put your face, and always ride shimano"

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 15:06
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Dawg!
I fucking love fenders

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Mon, 10/23/2017 - 15:22
chenghiz
chenghiz's picture

Made some mudflaps for the h/g since the ALX fenders are too short to keep my BB from getting covered in wet leaf crap. These are 11" long which miiight be too long but I can always cut them down of course. I think Andrew Squirrel pioneered this attachment method but I can't find the thread.


Sun, 12/10/2017 - 18:13
newellbt
(Reply to #569)

chenghiz wrote:
These are 11" long which miiight be too long but I can always cut them down of course.

unless you're running over your front flap with your rear wheel, they're not too long.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 11:48
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

Sweet! I've come to appreciate ultra long mudflaps which surprised me. I thought they were a little goofy at first but they do an amazing job at keeping the drivetrain clean and they shrug off curbs and trail detritus. I thought for sure that toe overlap issues would happen while turning but haven't had any so far. I still wish the ALX fenders were slightly longer in the front.

I still want to get a photo of a Seattle cyclist with the biggest mudflaps i've ever seen. They are huge and beaver tail in shape. I've only ever seen him in passing.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 13:44
jdsmooth
jdsmooth's picture

don't yer big flaps get sucked up under the fender? happened to me at least 2x.

Five-foot drops at speed on unstable terrain? Yep.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 14:13
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

I thought for sure it would happen but its never even come close. Not sure if its the material and outer attachment style but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 14:20
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture

A very low front mud-flap is definitely very nice but I feel like they are always picking up leaves and clipping curbs if you don't get it just right

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 14:47
puelnewdle
puelnewdle's picture

Long flaps are indeed rad.

Watching what all y'all are doing with the ALX fenders, the spend all my money on biek parts part of me is half tempted to buy a second set and put a rear fender up front on the Endpoint. But that's spendy and vinyl stair treads are like $3/each.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 15:23
Todd
Todd's picture

what did you use to puncture the fender and get your zip ties in?

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 15:32
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

It's a little easier if you have rolled edge VO/Berthoud/Honjo style since the rolled edges in the corner keeps the drill bit centered when drilled from the inside. The rolled edge also allows you to get the holes nearly symmetrical without measuring.
For the ALX I had to use a spring loaded center punch tool on the work bench to get a good starting dent for the drill bit.

Once you get it started the drill bit punches through the thin aluminum really quick, I like to put a chunk of scrap wood behind the fender.

For punching a hole in the material it depends on what you use. I've used soldering irons, hole punches and thin slits from an exacto.

The smaller exacto slits have worked out well for me but they also introduce a tearing point which might shorten the life.
One thing i've never tried is using a zip-tie & small washer which might prevent the sharp edge of the zip-tie from propagating the cut in the material.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 15:47
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Yep, super easy to get a stiffloppy plastic extension to squeeze into the rolled fender

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 15:50
johnasavoia
johnasavoia's picture

For plastic fenders I've used an exacto.

Mon, 12/11/2017 - 16:59
Face
Face's picture

I've put many holes into making different thin materials. For thin metal, definitely back it with a block of wood, use a sharp drill bit, and take your time.

For plastic or rubber I'll either use the same method with a block of wood or I'll melt a hole by heating up a metal thing the correct diameter with a torch, I've used nails, shitty old screwdrivers, etc. The method used relies mainly on what size hole is required, how much I care what the finished product looks like, how much of a hurry I'm in, and what tools are handy. I do prefer the melting method for thin hard plastic just to play it safe and avoid cracks.

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 10:00
joy of vaping
joy of vaping's picture

Yep, I've drilled holes in wald stainless fenders just by making a divot with a wood screw and a hammer, and then drilling clamped to a scrap piece of wood. It's easy.

Tue, 12/12/2017 - 10:53
jimmythefly
jimmythefly's picture

RE: tool-less quick-release fasteners. Brain dump, probably lots you all already know but here it goes:

Don't forget blinky mounts, pannier mounts, pump mounts, and other already-existing things that might be cut/scavenged/re-purposed for this purpose. Also like the lift-the-stud thingies, the world of fabric and backpacks is filled with buckles and snaps and hooks and other things like that already made for using with your fingers.

As a general rule, search for what you want, then once you figure out the right name for the item, try searching also using terms like "lightweight" "aluminum" "performance" "drone" or "r/c hobby" "camera"-that will help filter out heavy industrial versions and might lead to some nice anodized lightweight versions of whatever bit you are after. Don't forget to search using both metric and English measurements where appropriate. If you find a merely OK fastener X used to secure thing Y, try searching "lightweight Y attachment" or whatever to find a better version that is used in that industry.

Some general search terms to try: quarter turn fastener, quick release pin, quick release stud, ball stud, tool-free mount, ball lock pin, surface mount, push fastener, retainer clip, pin retainer, panel mount, panel fastener, re-useable fastner/clip/mount, bayonet fitting, coupling, coupler, latch.

Ball Studs
Available in many sizes, but tricky to find metric and especially tricky to find metric female threaded. Can be used with either a metal receptacle or with a rubber grommet if sized right. This is the solution I ended up going with for the part I was designing for my old job (adventure motorcycle headlight guards). We custom machined specific ball studs and used them with a specific rubber grommet.
Rubber grommet version is good for vibration but if on/off 3x a day for bicycling would kill the rubber pretty fast. Also tricky to get the holding power just right. I've never really fussed with the metal ones much.

Quarter Turn Fasteners
DZUS is a really common brand name. There are many variations on these. They work pretty well, we used to use the spring-loaded type on the headlight guards before I developed the ball stud system. A bit heavy, require more mounting holes, and can rattle. But nice positive lock usually and readily available.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#quarter-turn-fasteners/=1asyqo1
Also available in plastic

Ball lock pin
I really think these could make for a good system. The pins are straightforward and only require a plain tube of specific length to work. Watch the sizes a lot of these are pretty big if you google them. An o-ring or rubber grommet can help take up slack and prevent rattling. Very positive lock.
There are some guys making very nice versions small/lightweight to attach r/c helicopter canopies, but almost too light.

EDIT: Damn I think some cheap keychains might be the way to go, especially if you could have a custom rack with receptacle tubes already on it.

Plastic push-in fasteners. There are a zillion of these, but tricky to get your hands on only a couple to test unless you pretend to be a mfr. I never found any that would be that great for holding a whole bag securly over washboard (my thought experiment test to see what might work). Think vehicle interior panels, that sort of thing.

Other ideas I have not yet pursued (but I'm sure somebody has):
-Picatinny rail and associated fasteners and mounts. (google picatinny rail quick release nets a bunch of possibilities) including interesting stuff like this plastic mount for use with webbing http://na.itwnexus.com/content/qasm-picatinny-ramp
-Military helmet mount rails and system (not sure what it's called example: http://www.ops-core.com/system-components/component-mounts/arcs/ )
-Various other plug/socket systems that have a locking tab. (i.e. think ethernet plug or certain audio connections)
-There are some nice key chains that are designed to easily separate two rings and could be a good source of lightweight cheap parts (like this one that uses a ball-lock pin type system https://www.halder.com/Products/Standard-Parts/Machine-and-Fixture-Elements/Lifting-Pins/Key-Ring-Ball-Lock-Pins )
-Hood pins as seen on race cars, etc.
-Fitting like used for compressed air hoses. (variation on the ball-lock pin I suppose?)
-Fittings like used for other q/r hoses like backpacking gravity water filter systems.
-Bayonet fittings (i.e. the recent "DockIt" system http://www.dockittm.com/about.html)
-Using some old buckles and straps from a pair of Sidis to make a ratcheting connection.
-Lego

Just writing this post I found like 5 more things to check out

OMG.

/heavy breathing
Of course, on Alibaba. (Probably elsewhere on ebay too): https://hindi.alibaba.com/p-detail/hoso-racing-new-universal-quik-latch-low-profile-push-button-billet-hood-pins-60433022695.html


http://www.bmrs.net/quick_disconnects_01.html

https://www.mcmaster.com/#quarter-turn-fasteners/=1asyqo1
http://www.fasteningsystems.com/access_panel_fasteners.html
https://www.automotioncomponents.co.uk/en/catalog/rotary/ball-socket-joints/other-ball-socket-parts/r3535#
http://www.itw-fastex.com/access-panel-fasteners.html

deadforkinglast wrote:
But honestly, I have no idea how I am going to follow through on that plan and I already have a pretty rad bike. I think I just like fucking with my bikes.

Sat, 12/23/2017 - 02:00
Blakey
Blakey's picture

Hearteyes!

Sat, 12/23/2017 - 04:42
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Jimmy comes through again for Tarck

"Folks want options!"

Sat, 12/23/2017 - 08:16
jawn doe
jawn doe's picture

are the tarcklebees still a thing? if not, can someone give one of theirs to jimmy?

Sat, 12/23/2017 - 12:26
lukasz
lukasz's picture

Andrew what size ALX do you have? And how's your clearance with burts? I can just barely fit them without fenders as far as knobs hitting the chainstay but I really want to give fender knob lyfe a try.

Sun, 12/24/2017 - 20:57
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture
(Reply to #586)

lukasz wrote:
Andrew what size ALX do you have? And how's your clearance with burts? I can just barely fit them without fenders as far as knobs hitting the chainstay but I really want to give fender knob lyfe a try.

27.5 x 60
Clearance is pretty darn tight and I'm probably playing with fire but couldn't resist the experiment. I believe the secret is the shallow profile of the ALX compared to the deep concave profile you see on most fenders.

I already took the Thunder Burts off cuz I love tubeless more than riding around on knobs but now that Seattle has snow I want to put them back on for some fun. Snow will probably be melted by the time my vasectomy finally heals smiley

Tue, 12/26/2017 - 14:10
lukasz
lukasz's picture

Why no Burts tubeless? Do you use the super light version? I run the snakeskin with tubeless no problem.

Thu, 12/28/2017 - 22:22
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Last night I went to install the Paul Blue Balls seat binder that I drunkenly overpaid for and found that the bolt was WAY too long.
I then spent about 20 minutes making a custom spacer out of a little aluminum tube which I installed and looked at for a minute before realizing that I could just swap in a shorter M6 bolt LOL.

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Fri, 12/29/2017 - 09:43
lukasz
lukasz's picture

classic

Sat, 12/30/2017 - 13:05
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture
(Reply to #590)

lukasz wrote:
Why no Burts tubeless? Do you use the super light version? I run the snakeskin with tubeless no problem.

I believe they are the super light version (what is the proprietary code name for super light?).
They don't seem to want to stay up on the bead shelf on the light bicycle rims I have (using tubes). Attempt at seating bead with tubeless pump were also unsuccessful.
They are fairly old so it's possible that Schwalbe has iterated and refined the tubeless tire bead since then.

Sun, 12/31/2017 - 19:17
jawn doe
jawn doe's picture
(Reply to #591)

Rusty Piton wrote:
Last night I went to install the Paul Blue Balls seat binder that I drunkenly overpaid for and found that the bolt was WAY too long.
I then spent about 20 minutes making a custom spacer out of a little aluminum tube which I installed and looked at for a minute before realizing that I could just swap in a shorter M6 bolt LOL.

who wore it better?

Mon, 01/01/2018 - 02:22
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

I made a little theft deterrent for my bike parking spot at work.

It obviously won't stop a determined and sophisticated thief, but it's better than nothing!

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Tue, 01/02/2018 - 16:07
Shortpants
Shortpants's picture

It sucks to admit but as long as your neighbor bike isn't as secure then you're set.

Tue, 01/02/2018 - 23:30
Face
Face's picture

Pickup a free craigslist bike as a decoy?

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Wed, 01/03/2018 - 15:59
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Last night I had a dream where someone had cut my hoses and stolen my brake levers. WTF

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Wed, 01/03/2018 - 16:54
Face
Face's picture

Bummer dream.

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Wed, 01/03/2018 - 20:46
Rentable Faxmachine
Rentable Faxmachine's picture

Speaking of locks... gonna give this one a shot.

Wed, 01/03/2018 - 22:15
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture
(Reply to #598)

Rentable Faxmachine wrote:
Speaking of locks... gonna give this one a shot.

I know a few people who rely on them. They seem effectively as theft-proof as most comparable U-locks, in the sense that it is defeated almost exclusively by the kind of power tools which will render any lock useless. The lock mechanism itself is the same as any Abus U-lock, so that's a moot point, and it's very difficult to pry apart.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Thu, 01/04/2018 - 01:05
JUGE FREDD
JUGE FREDD's picture

I've been using them for a year and love it, got a combo one recently too

The 'lite' version is a lot weaker for the marginal weight loss, the links are loops of wire encased in plastic instead of steel bars

It's a struggle, but you cut out his tongue, and his last words are "atmo atmo Atmo ATMO ATMOOOOOGORIHGGHRSHGGRLMGGMMGMgrrglegurglegrr....."
– akasnowmaaan

Thu, 01/04/2018 - 04:05
dotMR
dotMR's picture

Tail Hook Lengthener wrote:
They seem effectively as theft-proof as most comparable U-locks, in the sense that it is defeated almost exclusively by the kind of power tools which will render any lock useless

agree with this, although I have to believe the joints are the weak links on those locks.

I tried both the Bordo (folding) and the U Lock in the Granit XPlus line and found the Bordo to just be more fiddly for regular usage with all the moving parts. In the end went back to U-Lock

https://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Folding-locks/BORDO-GRANIT-XPlus-6500
https://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/U-locks/GRANIT-XPlus-540

Thu, 01/04/2018 - 05:01

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