wheel building / discussion thread

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motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Building stupid Schwinn Circuit again, after selling off all the 10 speed fancy things. Kinda sucks for actual riding because it's a damn noodle. Anyways, what 32h tubeless 700c SILVER rims exist other than Velocity?

Do I need to take oven cleaner and polish a set of DT R460's? I'll do it. They're rad rims but would prefer not to?

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 03:19
jimmythefly
jimmythefly's picture

In rimbrakeway? Damn that is a tricky set of requirements.

deadforkinglast wrote:
But honestly, I have no idea how I am going to follow through on that plan and I already have a pretty rad bike. I think I just like fucking with my bikes.

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 03:29
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture
(Reply to #5053)

jimmythefly wrote:
In rimbrakeway? Damn that is a tricky set of requirements.

Yeah. I know. I think DT R460's are painted, so maybe acetone and then polish?

I just really, really hate Velocity rims. Over priced and shitty and soft and way not round.

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 03:56
JUGE FREDD
JUGE FREDD's picture

you might be able to find some Pacenti PL23 in 700c

also there's https://www.ryde.nl/edge-r-13

I wholly agree with velocityhate

It's a struggle, but you cut out his tongue, and his last words are "atmo atmo Atmo ATMO ATMOOOOOGORIHGGHRSHGGRLMGGMMGMgrrglegurglegrr....."
– akasnowmaaan

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 04:16
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

570 grams? HOLY SHIT.

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 04:53
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

whoa.

Pacenti Brevet looks rather awesome. Need to email them.

https://pacenticycledesign.com/collections/rims/products/brevet-rim-700c

Sun, 11/12/2017 - 04:54
jdsmooth
jdsmooth's picture

Kinlin xr22 and 31 comes in polished 32h: http://www.bikehubstore.com/category-s/246.htm
They do TL well.

Five-foot drops at speed on unstable terrain? Yep.

Mon, 11/13/2017 - 11:46
guccipolo
(Reply to #5058)

jawn doe wrote:
re: adventurer 2: how did they make a rim that good for that cheap??! gucci- what did you tubeless on them? i feel like powerblocks would have worked but didn't feel like testing it on a front wheel (the only wheel i have built with one)

Panaracer Fire XC Pro 26 x 2.1 in the 'tubeless compatible' version. Not sure how that differs from the true 'tubeless' version but it set up very easily.

Mon, 11/13/2017 - 16:21
blackholelectron
blackholelectron's picture

COMPLETELY destroyed my rear v1 sl23 rim a while back, and I wanted to rebuild those anyways, so I have an r460 on order as a replacement to finally have a 700c bike again

did I miss anything in 700c rim brake tubelessway? no silver requirement

re: alex adventure 2: holy shit. I want to build a bike around these now.

Quote:
if you're happily shuffling between rural corn dog purchases at 14mph, how are your needs not being met?

Wed, 11/15/2017 - 10:59
ergott
ergott's picture

Boyd, Easton SL90, Pacenti Forza

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Wed, 11/15/2017 - 12:09
Eric Estlund

Anything worth looking at that sits somewhere between a new TS-2 with dials and a P&K?

Fri, 11/17/2017 - 10:00
ergott
ergott's picture

I highly recommend dials with roller tips. Keeps the finish of the rim perfect especially if disc brake and you have a polished track. If you get the Park dials you still have to get roller tips.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Fri, 11/17/2017 - 12:48
Viggen
Viggen's picture

So stalk to me about what options, if any?, I have building up a 130 mm OLD rear disc wheel..?

Whippin Skidz wrote:
This is tarck, there is a complicated solution to everything and we will endlessly discuss until an agreed upon solution has been tabled. This is out of your hands now.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 10:40
ergott
ergott's picture

I think Velocity made them.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 12:40
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

White industries has a 130 disc hub

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 12:42
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

King classics, too

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 12:43
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

You can re-space a 135mm Shimano cup-and-cone hub to 130.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 12:58
Viggen
Viggen's picture

Tail Hook Lengthener wrote:
You can re-space a 135mm Shimano cup-and-cone hub to 130.

This is some serious stuff. But faaaarrk seems like they only make 32h versions of all their QR mtb hubs.
Seems like my best bet for 28h is the CX75 hub.

I don't wanna touch anything Velocity basically, fukka Chris King overpriced stuff..
Could probably splurge on WI but I'd rather stick to trusty Shimano. Good tips nonetheless.

Whippin Skidz wrote:
This is tarck, there is a complicated solution to everything and we will endlessly discuss until an agreed upon solution has been tabled. This is out of your hands now.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 13:19
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

If you know what you're doing, it's not too hard. In the shop, I could probably whip one up in 30 minutes. The benefit to this is that there are shitloads of practically worthless high-end XT and XTR hubs out there which could be converted.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 13:35
drwelby
drwelby's picture
(Reply to #5070)

Tail Hook Lengthener wrote:
You can re-space a 135mm Shimano cup-and-cone hub to 130.

But that moves your disc 5mm closer to the dropout.

Naturally, this bike is partially tarck's fault.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 13:37
Gary Fissure

What frame? almost all 130 disc frames are not worth the effort, what with all the good cheap gravel grinders out now.

mander wrote:
And what if the part is, like, just a nut? *huge bong rip*

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 13:48
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

See the thread where we shit on old bikes for $600.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 14:08
iwillbe
iwillbe's picture
(Reply to #5073)

eric_ssucks wrote:
See the thread where we shit on old bikes for $600.

That seems like a lot of money to charge for shitting on old bikes.

130mm OLD disc seems like a recipe for frustration, but I'm pretty sure that Specialized did a 130mm disc version of the Tarmac with a bunch of weird proprietary parts kludged in to make it work. Ebay might surface some of that for you?

All music is just the Eagles with different geometry.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 14:51
Face
Face's picture

Cold set the derpouts to 135.

Mr. Pubes wrote:
i fear that you are so lost in your own asshole that you may never be found again. do you have a flare gun? send for help.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 14:53
Viggen
Viggen's picture

If it were any other frame than my Godspeed (hand built in Sweden, übercüstom, only one ex, know the frame builder type of thing yadayada....) I'd sell it in a heartbeat.
Since I'm gonna have him braze disc mounts on (going 650B) it he could cold set it to 135 as well.

Whippin Skidz wrote:
This is tarck, there is a complicated solution to everything and we will endlessly discuss until an agreed upon solution has been tabled. This is out of your hands now.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 15:57
Blakey
Blakey's picture

If you're getting the disc mounts added, absolutely get it respaced. otherwise you're stuck with a hard to find wheel forever.

if it was a weird awesome calfee 130mm disc frame or something, that might justify a 130mm WI disc hub, but even then, I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 16:04
eric_ssucks
eric_ssucks's picture

Yeah, I figured it was your unicorn bike. If you're getting work done at the framebuilder on your roadbike you might as well get it respaced to the current "standard" so you can use current parts.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 16:37
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture
(Reply to #5078)

Blakey wrote:
if it was a weird awesome calfee 130mm disc frame or something, that might justify a 130mm WI disc hub, but even then, I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.

Were we thinking of the same bike?

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 17:20
ergott
ergott's picture

You sure WI makes one? You can't just swap endcap as cleared up above. I wouldn't cold set frame unless access to alignment tools for getting disc mount in right place. There's not that much room for adjustment of caliper.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 20:12
JUGE FREDD
JUGE FREDD's picture

the 130mm frame doesn't have a disc tab on it yet

It's a struggle, but you cut out his tongue, and his last words are "atmo atmo Atmo ATMO ATMOOOOOGORIHGGHRSHGGRLMGGMMGMgrrglegurglegrr....."
– akasnowmaaan

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 20:22
Blakey
Blakey's picture

They used to, not shown on their current site tho.

Whether these listings reflect actual stock held is another story:
http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/white-industries-mi6-cx-130-rear-polished-iso-6-bolt-disc-hub.html
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/white-industries-cx11-disc-rear-cyclocross-hub.html

JUGE FREDD wrote:
the 130mm frame doesn't have a disc tab on it yet

hey hey hey , I'm counting chickens / putting the cart before the horse / booking future profits here.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 20:24
ergott
ergott's picture
(Reply to #5082)

Viggen wrote:
Since I'm gonna have him braze disc mounts on (going 650B) it he could cold set it to 135 as well.

This is the correct answer. fucka 130 disc.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 21:17
ergott
ergott's picture
(Reply to #5083)

JUGE FREDD wrote:
the 130mm frame doesn't have a disc tab on it yet

Sometimes I hate reading Tarck on my phone. Deets missed for days

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 21:18
liquify
liquify's picture

He didn't mention that until later, so don't feel bad.
I was confused as to what bike he had or would have that had a 130 disc frame.

Mon, 11/27/2017 - 21:28
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture

Or get this perfectly fine 130 spaced Novatec hub for cheap.

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D352SB-10.asp

Wed, 11/29/2017 - 21:25
deadforkinglast
deadforkinglast's picture

I built up some WTB KOMs to DT 350s for the Endpoint a couple of months ago and installed tires on them so they wouldn't get destroyed in my bike mess. I picked them up to admire them over the weekend and noticed that the spoke tension was really low. I went over to my buddy's house where I had built them and, using the same tensiometer that I used when I built them, found that the tension was consistently about 25% lower than I built them to.

Do these rims drop a lot of tension when the tire is installed, or was I just drunk when I built them?

I know Stan's rims used to drop a lot of tension when the tire was inflated (maybe they still do, I just haven't built one up in about 4 years), but I never had (or at least never noticed) that problem with the WTB Frequency rims, and I built up a few wheels with those rims.

Wed, 11/29/2017 - 21:50
ergott
ergott's picture

Every rim drops tension, some more than others. I haven't measured the delta on those rims.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Wed, 11/29/2017 - 21:52
deadforkinglast
deadforkinglast's picture

yeah, I know there's always a little, but this seemed particularly pronounced. I might have just done a shitty job on the first pass, though.

Wed, 11/29/2017 - 22:00
JUGE FREDD
JUGE FREDD's picture

KOMs drop tension a *lot* more than the Frequency Team

It's a struggle, but you cut out his tongue, and his last words are "atmo atmo Atmo ATMO ATMOOOOOGORIHGGHRSHGGRLMGGMMGMgrrglegurglegrr....."
– akasnowmaaan

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 00:08
Larry Winget
Larry Winget's picture
(Reply to #5090)

Endpoint wrote:
Or get this perfectly fine 130 spaced Novatec hub for cheap.

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D352SB-10.asp

I had a 130 spaced Redline Conquest Disc-R for a while. Was all set to buy this and found a $40 hybrid wheel on ebay that solved my problem.

The Pitbull of Personal Development®

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 02:11
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture
(Reply to #5091)

JUGE FREDD wrote:
KOMs drop tension a *lot* more than the Frequency Team

Yeah, my KOMs dropped way way more than any other wheels I've built. I had to fully retension/true them once the tires were mounted.

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Thu, 11/30/2017 - 09:46
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

What’s the current 700c tubeless road rim?

"Folks want options!"

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 17:25
ergott
ergott's picture

Boyd?
Belgium Plus?
Easton R90?
Pacenti Forza? (I happen to like them)

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 19:29
jamesacklin
jamesacklin's picture

Instagram says The Hydra, but Belgium+ seems to be doing the trick

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 19:32
ryker

Rim brake? Disc brake? Did you ask on Bikeforums?

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 20:26
Endpoint
Endpoint's picture

DT RR411 is pretty sweet.

As much as I love the Belgium+ I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s overkill for 23-28mm tires. The 411 is light, offset extrusion and ships with washers (and alloy nips if that’s your thing).

It’s also less $$$$.

Builds up nice, especially for front disc use. Spoke tension is about as close to equal between sides as you’re going to get on a 100mm spaced disc hub.

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 20:59
Tail Hook Lengthener
Tail Hook Lengthener's picture

Ditto the DT recommendations, and on a budget, it's impossible to beat the Alex Adventure 2.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Tue, 12/05/2017 - 21:18
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

I re-laced a new wheel 4 times last night. New rim, spokes & nips but reusing SON dynamo hub.
This is my first time attempting a wheel build with used hubs and I've read in the literature that you should always line up the flange scars from previous spokes instead of cutting new scars in the opposite direction. I finally figured out how to get one side of the hub to match scars, laced it up then realized that the other flange did not match previous lacing!
I looked over the entire wheel again and compared to other wheels in the house to make sure it matched.
WTF, is that possible? Did the wheelbuilder before me screw up or do you think I did something wrong?

Is the matching scars warning a little overblown or should I try to resolve?

Tue, 12/26/2017 - 13:51
motorbacon
motorbacon's picture

Pictures please.

I recommend matching the indents on the hub if you care about the wheel.

Tue, 12/26/2017 - 14:11
ryker

Are you trying to line up markings on the hub with the valve hole? Perhaps it didn't before. Maybe a 2x/3x mix or something? Maybe an asymmetric pattern though unlikely for a front wheel? You can sometimes find stupid lacing patterns that arise when people want to re-use spokes so anything's possible.

The matching scars warning may or may not matter. If you have a hub previously laced 3x and switch to radial, it's bad news. Switch 3x to 2x, maybe not a big deal. Danger will depend on the hub (e.g. flange thickness, amount of material, etc). I avoid the ambiguity by re-lacing in the same pattern and I've always been able to figure it out though I've built hundreds of wheels so easy for me to say. Sometimes a hub has been laced multiple ways already, in which case I lace in the pattern with most severe deformation and call out the issue to the customer so I'm not on the hook down the road.

Take a break and come back to it later IMO. You should be able to see if you're on the right track within the first few spokes.

Tue, 12/26/2017 - 14:26

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