affordable fenders in this style for the US market
modern MTB thumb shifters
modern shallow drop bars in 26.0 (no wing shape for quill stem-friendliness). Front cable grooves only plz. They should come in 40, 42, and 44 at least, and ideally 46
wide cloth tape with a light cork backing
a badass stainless steel thermos with no fugly logos that fits in a standard bottle cage
Just ran across this DIY and blog for that matter.
I wish peril sensitive oakley radars existed.
I wish Shimano made a mtn rear derailleur that didn't have raised lettering and look like it was designed by star trek. basically a non-series Ultegra-level polished one that would fit in with their road groups.
I always liked this generation:
XTR M960, you can still find it online from a few vendors.
I have one in Rapid Rise/Low Normal, it looks nice.
Edit: Upon review, I can't find any of these in a high normal style, do they exist?
I wish Shimano made a mtn rear derailleur that didn't have raised lettering and look like it was designed by star trek. basically a non-series Ultegra-level polished one that would fit in with their road groups.
I always liked this generation:
XTR M960, you can still find it online from a few vendors.
I have one in Rapid Rise/Low Normal, it looks nice.
Edit: Upon review, I can't find any of these in a high normal style, do they exist?
I am actually pretty sure I have this sitting in my parts bin.
modern MTB thumb shifters
modern shallow drop bars in 26.0 (no wing shape for quill stem-friendliness). Front cable grooves only plz. They should come in 40, 42, and 44 at least, and ideally 46
What's wrong with Paul Thumbies?
Also QBP still has a few Deda 215 shallows left. 42,44, and 46 (outer to outer)
true dat... i actually didn't know that dual allen ones existed. It does sound like a much better system.
Dude came into the shop this summer complaining of clicking in the crank region. Identified loose bolts, then stared at the dual allen system for probably a solid minute before I figured out what the hell was going on. Then everything was cool.
johnnyraja wrote:
This is the most pointless conversation ever had on a forum entirely devoted to pointless conversation.
Not a good enough excuse. Retro-grouch specific parts come at a cost...
bradencbc wrote:
Also QBP still has a few Deda 215 shallows left. 42,44, and 46 (outer to outer)
Rear cable groove. Wrong shape. Do not want. I was thinking more along the lines of the FSA shallows.
I doubt the super tight bend at the top of the drop on a modern compacts would make it past a 1 bolt quill anyway. Suck it up and buy a threadless adapter or continue to suffer.
Carbon frame with a relatively long headtube and clearance for 28c.
Cannondale Synapse carbon. Back will take 28 for sure... front at least a 25 but maybe bigger.
"at least a 25 maybe bigger" isn't the same thing as "it takes 28s". I've read similar reports about the Paris-Roubaix and the Cervelo RS. If I decide to buy something, I'll just have to go and check. I think the problem is that modern short reach brakes don't clear 28s very well unless perfectly positioned.
...shift like jesus making one set of footprints in the sand in your time of need
I'm trying to figure out if you could make a centerpull/u brake that would utilize the canti mounts on a 700c bike as some kind of Paul Racer mount -type thing for 650b or 26 wheels. That would be fucking cool.
Not a good enough excuse. Retro-grouch specific parts come at a cost...
bradencbc wrote:
Also QBP still has a few Deda 215 shallows left. 42,44, and 46 (outer to outer)
Rear cable groove. Wrong shape. Do not want. I was thinking more along the lines of the FSA shallows.
I doubt the super tight bend at the top of the drop on a modern compacts would make it past a 1 bolt quill anyway. Suck it up and buy a threadless adapter or continue to suffer.
I put a decent groove in a set of EC90 classic bends trying to get them in an old quill stem. I think they are probably toast from it.
Carbon frame with a relatively long headtube and clearance for 28c.
Cannondale Synapse carbon. Back will take 28 for sure... front at least a 25 but maybe bigger.
Exactly what I was going to say.
Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.
I've considered replacing my C'Dale with a Fisher road bike. They're awesome - clearance for wide tires, fender mounts, integrated bottom bracket, and attractive super-PRO paint jobs.
Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.
I've considered replacing my C'Dale with a Fisher road bike. They're awesome - clearance for wide tires, fender mounts, integrated bottom bracket, and attractive super-PRO paint jobs.
i was trying to find some info about actual clearances or anything worth posting from the website, but it is just mostly videos of gary fisher talking. pretty awesome.
-edit-
and if you want a stiff bike, apparently the aluminum version with carbon stays is one of the stiffer bikes available. unfortunately it is only available as a complete with 105.
I wish Shimano made a mtn rear derailleur that didn't have raised lettering and look like it was designed by star trek. basically a non-series Ultegra-level polished one that would fit in with their road groups.
I always liked this generation:
XTR M960, you can still find it online from a few vendors.
I have one in Rapid Rise/Low Normal, it looks nice.
Edit: Upon review, I can't find any of these in a high normal style, do they exist?
I am actually pretty sure I have this sitting in my parts bin.
dontated one of these to the collective in a fit of altruism. FML
compass stem cap is dumbest idea ever- the metal bike frame will interfere with the magnetic waves, making compass direction go all screwy.
Alu won't affect a compass at all. Has to be magnetic like steel or nickel. Since the compass is co-axial with the major steel parts closest to it (head tube, bearings and races) they are unlikely to disrupt the compass in a meaningful way. Most bars nowadays are alu or cf so that shouldn't have a big effect. Given the precision of the compass markings (basically every 45 degrees or so, the thing is likely to be just fine.
But if you doubt it, the test is easy, take a compass and set it on top of your stem. See what happens.
compass stem cap is dumbest idea ever- the metal bike frame will interfere with the magnetic waves, making compass direction go all screwy.
Alu won't affect a compass at all. Has to be magnetic like steel or nickel. Since the compass is co-axial with the major steel parts closest to it (head tube, bearings and races) they are unlikely to disrupt the compass in a meaningful way. Most bars nowadays are alu or cf so that shouldn't have a big effect. Given the precision of the compass markings (basically every 45 degrees or so, the thing is likely to be just fine.
But if you doubt it, the test is easy, take a compass and set it on top of your stem. See what happens.
that compass looks like it could be wrapped in a magnet. how do you think magnets on cars, boats, most places they are used work? you wrap it in a magnet that pulls equally from all sides, or something to that nature, as far as i understand it.
But if you doubt it, the test is easy, take a compass and set it on top of your stem. See what happens.
Although I've never used it, I always have a compass in my bag (a decent Silva one, not some key chain), so I tried this. The frame of the bike does indeed mess with the compass, but up by the stem top cap it pointed very close to magnetic north every time I tried.
Now, keep in mind that the stem cap compass will be at whatever angle your steerer tube is, but it really needs to be level to get a reading.
Basically, if you're thinking this thing is going to give you an exact measurement, you're going to be disappointed. It'd be difficult to use it with a map anyway. But, if you want something that's kind of cool and only care if your going "kinda north" or "pretty much east" it will probably work out.
Yep, going to have to go with a stainless Tommasini to make sure I don't jack up the field lines interacting with the magnets in the stem cap compass.
Dagnabbit, I knew I shouldn't have exposed my LeMond to a 4 Tesla electromagnet... Now, when I ride by garbage truck, I get attached to the side of it. A stop sign uprooted and flew at me the other day, too.
Not really a part, but I'd like a pair of boxer briefs that have leg grippers like lycra so they dot ride of your leg when they strech out from moving around in them all day. Oh, and they have to wick sweat.
Sneaky Viking wrote:
if you're here, you probably fucked up somewhere along the line.
Not really a part, but I'd like a pair of boxer briefs that have leg grippers like lycra so they dot ride of your leg when they strech out from moving around in them all day. Oh, and they have to wick sweat.
cool diy, jackass bik
Carbon frame with a relatively long headtube and clearance for 28c.
...shift like jesus making one set of footprints in the sand in your time of need
Nothing like a roubaix or an infinito have room for 28s? There's gotta be something out there.
these exist bro- check your bike
The Specialized Tarmac?
haha
I always liked this generation:
XTR M960, you can still find it online from a few vendors.
I have one in Rapid Rise/Low Normal, it looks nice.
Edit: Upon review, I can't find any of these in a high normal style, do they exist?
*1/2" wide
300 tpi 28c clinchers that dont wear out when you skid on them.
ftfy.
I am actually pretty sure I have this sitting in my parts bin.
i have some good news for you...
Cannondale Synapse carbon. Back will take 28 for sure... front at least a 25 but maybe bigger.
What's wrong with Paul Thumbies?
Also QBP still has a few Deda 215 shallows left. 42,44, and 46 (outer to outer)
Too expensive. Otherwise fine.
Rear cable groove. Wrong shape. Do not want. I was thinking more along the lines of the FSA shallows.
The Pitbull of Personal Development®
Compass stem cap. Should've chosen a less hideous cockpit--besides a bike that would actually have a use for a compass.
But pretty sure that if it actually existed I'd be posting it to this thread's doppelganger instead.
but skidz 4 dayz are so much fun
Definitely. Where the hell are the brake levers?
The Pitbull of Personal Development®
Dude came into the shop this summer complaining of clicking in the crank region. Identified loose bolts, then stared at the dual allen system for probably a solid minute before I figured out what the hell was going on. Then everything was cool.
Dude, you could have googled and found one faster than it probably took you to Photoshop that picture together:
http://www.stemcaptain.com/products/
Thermometers too!
I doubt the super tight bend at the top of the drop on a modern compacts would make it past a 1 bolt quill anyway. Suck it up and buy a threadless adapter or continue to suffer.
"at least a 25 maybe bigger" isn't the same thing as "it takes 28s". I've read similar reports about the Paris-Roubaix and the Cervelo RS. If I decide to buy something, I'll just have to go and check. I think the problem is that modern short reach brakes don't clear 28s very well unless perfectly positioned.
...shift like jesus making one set of footprints in the sand in your time of need
I did your work for you... synapse carbon fork clears a 700x28 Vittoria Rando with the stock brake.
a stem with a built-in rechargeable battery pack for a front light.
Tsuzing, get on this ASAP, before anyone steals my idea.
Would do to my Gunnar.
I put a decent groove in a set of EC90 classic bends trying to get them in an old quill stem. I think they are probably toast from it.
Rad.
Radder.
Thanks. Was it a long walk from your office to the showroom?
...shift like jesus making one set of footprints in the sand in your time of need
i'm tellin' ya - those gary fisher road bikes are gonna be rad.
A rando in 28 isn't really much of a 28. They measure out like 25.
I totally had to eat 3 gu's and chug a bottle of endurox when I was done.
Really liking this.
I dig this frame.
The Pitbull of Personal Development®
Exactly what I was going to say.
I've considered replacing my C'Dale with a Fisher road bike. They're awesome - clearance for wide tires, fender mounts, integrated bottom bracket, and attractive super-PRO paint jobs.
yeah. very cool.
i was trying to find some info about actual clearances or anything worth posting from the website, but it is just mostly videos of gary fisher talking. pretty awesome.
-edit-
and if you want a stiff bike, apparently the aluminum version with carbon stays is one of the stiffer bikes available. unfortunately it is only available as a complete with 105.
compass stem cap is dumbest idea ever- the metal bike frame will interfere with the magnetic waves, making compass direction go all screwy.
huh
can all the smart people here verify this? cuz i want a compass on my bike!!
dontated one of these to the collective in a fit of altruism. FML
Alu won't affect a compass at all. Has to be magnetic like steel or nickel. Since the compass is co-axial with the major steel parts closest to it (head tube, bearings and races) they are unlikely to disrupt the compass in a meaningful way. Most bars nowadays are alu or cf so that shouldn't have a big effect. Given the precision of the compass markings (basically every 45 degrees or so, the thing is likely to be just fine.
But if you doubt it, the test is easy, take a compass and set it on top of your stem. See what happens.
aww, bless your soul sonny
that compass looks like it could be wrapped in a magnet. how do you think magnets on cars, boats, most places they are used work? you wrap it in a magnet that pulls equally from all sides, or something to that nature, as far as i understand it.
Although I've never used it, I always have a compass in my bag (a decent Silva one, not some key chain), so I tried this. The frame of the bike does indeed mess with the compass, but up by the stem top cap it pointed very close to magnetic north every time I tried.
Now, keep in mind that the stem cap compass will be at whatever angle your steerer tube is, but it really needs to be level to get a reading.
Basically, if you're thinking this thing is going to give you an exact measurement, you're going to be disappointed. It'd be difficult to use it with a map anyway. But, if you want something that's kind of cool and only care if your going "kinda north" or "pretty much east" it will probably work out.
Shit, the compass makers must've forgotten about that magnetic field.
Please inform them.
(rudetay's got the right logic atmo)
Yep, going to have to go with a stainless Tommasini to make sure I don't jack up the field lines interacting with the magnets in the stem cap compass.
Dagnabbit, I knew I shouldn't have exposed my LeMond to a 4 Tesla electromagnet... Now, when I ride by garbage truck, I get attached to the side of it. A stop sign uprooted and flew at me the other day, too.
Head lugs for 1 1/8" steerer tubes. Maybe they do exist. I dunno.
The Pitbull of Personal Development®
Not really a part, but I'd like a pair of boxer briefs that have leg grippers like lycra so they dot ride of your leg when they strech out from moving around in them all day. Oh, and they have to wick sweat.
i hate leg grippers.
Many different kinds.
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