Luxos U Warranty Chat

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ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture
(Reply to #251)

jawn doe wrote:
Sks longboards have two conductive strips in em if you're looking for clean routing

I feel like this is an urban legend so like Squirrel I would like to know more. I've never seen anybody actually do this (I'm not looking to be the first)

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Mon, 01/04/2016 - 20:41
The RTS
The RTS's picture

My brother had a 91 or 92 Giant Expedition that came with the ESGE (SKS) fenders that had the wiring run through the rear fender. Connected via a snap fastener.

Mon, 01/04/2016 - 21:10
crowding
crowding's picture

I have done the sks-conductor trick. It's a thin piece of aluminum foil molded inside the plastic, so I don't think it would be possible to solder to it. What I did was to drill undersized holes and put some regular self-thread-forming computer case screws to bite in to the alu and act as screw terminals.

They're pretty easy to strip out though. Rivnuts might be more secure come to think of it. Supposedly there were special connectors to do it but idk what they were like.

In any case the bikenerd factor is offset by taking longer to set up and putting four potentially flaky mechanical connections to the circuit.

I endorse drilling a single entry hole and exit hole and running the wire inside the fender. Clear packing tape works perfect.

Mon, 01/04/2016 - 21:12
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture
(Reply to #254)

jawn doe wrote:
Sks longboards have two conductive strips in em if you're looking for clean routing

Wat

"Folks want options!"

Mon, 01/04/2016 - 22:41
jawn doe
jawn doe's picture

I haven't personally done it but my old boss sold me a bike set up like that. Had mechanical fasteners. Was pretty neat. Didn't own it for long enough to find out how well it held up.

Mon, 01/04/2016 - 23:25
yummygooey
(Reply to #256)

Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
Have you ever used them for dynamo wiring purposes?
If so, did you solder to them directly or drill out and use ground lug crimp terminal + bolt?

i haven't done it before for this particular application but i'm planning on soldering it

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 10:05
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture
(Reply to #257)

crowding wrote:
In any case the bikenerd factor is offset by taking longer to set up and putting four potentially flaky mechanical connections to the circuit.

I endorse drilling a single entry hole and exit hole and running the wire inside the fender. Clear packing tape works perfect.

Thanks tons for that picture but I think you are probably right about this not being a great idea. These fenders do crack as well if they get damaged so if that happens then your lights are fubar until you can stop to rewire the whole thing.

Also found this pic of some SKS fenders with a couple copper bands running along the inside (although these ones are apparently corroded near the terminals)

My fenders definitely don't have those bands

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 10:36
The RTS
The RTS's picture

I don't think they have this feature anymore as 99.99% of the time it wasn't used

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 11:12
drwelby
drwelby's picture

In the ESGE Chromoplastics, which later became SKS, there were 3 bands of foil. One down the center which can ground to the frame, and one on each side. This image shows a rivet, not sure if it was threaded or if it had something internal that could grab a wire stuck into it.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 11:46
biek

yes, and esge/sks fenders were specifically designed for that capability.
seems like a vestigial feature that people are now just re-discovering.

pappaheugwang wrote:
u mad bro?

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 11:49
tamaso
tamaso's picture
(Reply to #261)

biekridder wrote:
sge/sks fenders were specifically designed for that capability.
seems like a vestigial feature that people are now just re-discovering.

whoa. mind blown.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 11:56
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

my mind officially asplode

"Folks want options!"

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 12:53
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture

Damn all this wiringchat has me thinking I need to run my wire through my top tube now too

SQ anybody got any good pics of their internal wire routing?

edit: I've decided I'm too lazy to drill my frame but I will still take pics if you have them lol

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 14:00
drwelby
drwelby's picture

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 14:09
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture
(Reply to #265)

ShartAttack wrote:
edit: I've decided I'm too lazy to drill my frame but I will still take pics if you have them lol

I originally went to a few shops to see if they would do this for my Rodriguez but nobody felt comfortable and the few people I talked to said you should only drill a hole through a headtube, seatube or BB lug if you absolutely must put a hole in the frame. The best solution would be to have the paint removed and have a reinforced hole brazed by a professional. If you want to do any shenanigans in the BB shell you're opening a whole separate can of worms. If it gets to that point you should pull the BB and make sure you could fit a wire through the desired BB shell vent holes.

After the cracked dynamo wiring hole in my Elephant fork I now realize how critical it is to reinforce your holes

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 14:27
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

Also, holy crap, I didn't realize the fender strips were intentionally designed for dynamo wiring, I thought people were re-purposing something intended for structural integrity.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 14:28
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture
(Reply to #267)

Andrew_Squirrel wrote:
I now realize how critical it is to reinforce your holes

Indeed, indeed

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 14:36
yummygooey

i guess my question is... top tube or down tube internal light wiring?

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 15:38
drwelby
drwelby's picture

Depends on where your light is going to end up.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 15:43
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

A friend of mine from Portland visited a couple months ago and whomever did his disc LHT rear light external wiring did a terrible job. They loosely routed it along the top tube. I couldn't stand looking at it in our garage so I fixed it while he was working at the hospital.
I was completely shocked how well full downtube routed dick brake housing plays with dynamo wiring. I think I actually prefer it to internal wiring if your bike is already set up that way. I cut all of his zip-tie guides and rebundled the housing and wiring with a new set of zip-ties. You couldn't even tell the dynamo wiring was there.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 16:22
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture

Yeah mine is just taped/ziptied along the top tube right now. Not really sure how to improve on that without some sorts of frame modifications that sound like they may not be such a good idea.

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 16:56
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

I think you're doing everything right for an existing frame. Tape is pretty wonderful at keeping it in place. Bonus point for matching tape.

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 17:00
The RTS
The RTS's picture

I've seen wiring shrinktubed to housing in a pretty tidy package

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 19:55
emor
emor's picture

I'm running mine down the underside of the down tube, under the BB and back up the seat tube. Works ok.

"my main life goal is to have a dirtbag camper van with a bunch of bikes on it, go camping every vacation forever" -- me

Tue, 01/05/2016 - 22:50
ergott
ergott's picture
(Reply to #275)

The RTS wrote:
I've seen wiring shrinktubed to housing in a pretty tidy package

Someday I'll do this with the rear hydro hose. I just don't feel like removing rear line right now.

If someone on here did it, I'd probably like it. Since it was done by someone I don't know, they're a fucking idiot.

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 07:39
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture
(Reply to #276)

emor wrote:
I'm running mine down the underside of the down tube, under the BB and back up the seat tube. Works ok.

If I have enough wire (and I think I should), I'm thinking to run the wire down the downtube as you say, then put another set of connectors next to the BB, then run the wire up the fender from there.

Though now I'm remembering that all the B&M style connectors I have are female. I guess at the connection between the BB and fender I could use any connector I want though. yay for more digging in my connectors box?

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 10:40
joy of vaping
joy of vaping's picture

My wiring for fender mounted secula is downtube -> chainstay -> fenderstay, with zipties. I had used electrical tape at first, but then dirt got in and it started unraveling. Had just enough wire to do it, but wish I would have put connectors at the BB so I could take the fenders off.

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 12:06
The RTS
The RTS's picture
(Reply to #278)

ShartAttack wrote:
emor wrote:
I'm running mine down the underside of the down tube, under the BB and back up the seat tube. Works ok.

If I have enough wire (and I think I should), I'm thinking to run the wire down the downtube as you say, then put another set of connectors next to the BB, then run the wire up the fender from there.

Though now I'm remembering that all the B&M style connectors I have are female. I guess at the connection between the BB and fender I could use any connector I want though. yay for more digging in my connectors box?

I'd say the bb area wouldn't be a great area due to being about the dirtiest/wettest spot on a bike even with fenders

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 18:21
joy of vaping
joy of vaping's picture

Hm yeah -- if you run wire up fender stay, you can put connectors at the nds dropout instead.

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 19:03
crowding
crowding's picture

Datapoint on SP: I emailed a couple vendors about my desires for a special snowflake SP centerlock thru axle hub in silver and they said they are expecting shipments from in Feb/Mar.

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 19:10
lukasz
lukasz's picture

Cool!

Wed, 01/06/2016 - 23:06
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture

Just finished wiring up my bike with that coaxial wire from Markertek. Honestly not a big fan of it, but for now it seems to be working. Main problem is that the inner wire is pretty thin and contains some nylon(?) strands that melt away when you try to solder connections, leaving even thinner copper strands remaining. Thus I'm skeptical of all of the connections to the inner wire but time will tell whether that was warranted.

Ended up running the wire along the drive side of the top tube. Like I did before. This time however, I ran it a couple inches down the seatstay and then put in a couple spade connectors. I then drilled the fender at both ends, ran the wire through it, set the wire in place with packing tape, and then used a little RTV to seal it at the ends on the inside.

Main problem is that the hardware store connectors I used at the fender are big and ugly, but I'm not in a hurry to fix it. And I'm still worried about connection durability.

Tl;dr I don't like the coax wire

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 18:44
JUGE FREDD
JUGE FREDD's picture

you're not really supposed to solder those spade connectors, makes the connection more brittle than the intended crimping

the fiber strands in the microphone cable are indeed weird for our purposes, the Schmidt Coax is just copper and more of it

It's a struggle, but you cut out his tongue, and his last words are "atmo atmo Atmo ATMO ATMOOOOOGORIHGGHRSHGGRLMGGMMGMgrrglegurglegrr....."
– akasnowmaaan

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 18:59
ShartAttack
ShartAttack's picture

I was soldering and crimping so hopefully that keeps it together. I should look into that Schmidt wire if I have to rewire someday.

I feel like I should reiterate though that the whole setup works just fine now. Standlight on my Toplight is super strong and lasting for ages so the wire is working fine in spite of its quirks.

Former RAGBRAI enthusiast

Sat, 01/09/2016 - 19:53
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

lolin

Quote:
Equipped with a 50mm snap in rails bracket that fits most saddle rails, or clips to bags/clothes

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=78432

I'm imagining someone with rear dynamo light clipped to their rain jacket trying to dismount and forgetting they are wired to the bike.

Wed, 01/13/2016 - 18:31
Goddamnit Gunther
Goddamnit Gunther's picture

Maybe they should hire a technical writer who's actually ridden a bike

Endpoint wrote:
turdly buttways

Wed, 01/13/2016 - 18:34
Rentable Faxmachine
Rentable Faxmachine's picture

LOL'ing at:

"...stays lit when you stop for up to 3 minutes."

Wed, 01/13/2016 - 18:36
drwelby
drwelby's picture
(Reply to #288)

Reasonable Facsimile wrote:
LOL'ing at:

"...stays lit when you stop for up to 3 minutes."

That's enough time to unclip it from your saddle and clip it on your belt!

Wed, 01/13/2016 - 18:42
joy of vaping
joy of vaping's picture

xpost from shartlife:

What connectors should I get to make breaks in B&M wiring? Assuming these work: http://www.longleafbicycles.com/collections/dynamo-wiring-connectors/products/schmidt-part-4-8mm-female-connector-for-son-hub-terminals

Any other options?

The wires coming out of my Eyc are too short, so I want to cut them off close to the light, put in connectors, and use longer wire. I'll also put a break at the dropout on the trek so I can take the rear fender off.

Tue, 01/19/2016 - 14:11
Andrew_Squirrel
Andrew_Squirrel's picture

You want 2.8mm for interconnects. 4.8mm is primarily for hub connections (Schmidt) but will work fine too if you make sure both genders match.
Maybe also consider that bundle of circular banana style jacks that someone linked to recently on Amazon: http://amzn.com/B00T5SW7FE

If you're cutting one set of wires coming out of the lamp I would make sure they aren't the same length & connector style so you can differentiate the input & output from each other.

edit: lol at the review for those Amazon connectors

Quote:
My 30 yr old daughter likes them so much she wants to make earnings or some body piercing darn thing. I said, Only ifin ya make me un of em fer my nose so we will match up together. Now that is some excellent parenting skills at work. 14 word sentence killed that idea!

Tue, 01/19/2016 - 14:38
buffoon
buffoon's picture

Hey nerds,
IQ-X is available at starbike.

also, lolololol @ amazon review

Lippy wrote:
a measured amount of muscle and hate when installing should keep that from happening.

Fri, 01/22/2016 - 11:43
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton's picture

Starbike wrote:
on order (delivery date unknown)

emor wrote:
Bicycle commuting is the worst way to get anywhere except for all the other ways.

Fri, 01/22/2016 - 17:51
Wintage Townie
Wintage Townie's picture

I am literally just about to order a Luxos U from Germany. Should I spring for the IQ-X? Is it that much better?

Is it even available anywhere?

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Tue, 02/16/2016 - 22:38
NOVELTYNAME
NOVELTYNAME's picture

Luxos u is a fine lamp
I don't think anyone has the iq-X yet

"Folks want options!"

Tue, 02/16/2016 - 23:02
Wintage Townie
Wintage Townie's picture

I said "fuck it" and ordered the U.

Sneaky Viking wrote:
when you look back at your life sometimes you see a set of hands on your keyboard and a set of paws, but sometimes there's only a set of paws and that's when Tarckbear was typing for you.

Tue, 02/16/2016 - 23:16
heavymetal
heavymetal's picture

Secula rear light users/NFE bros: has anyone found a good mounting solution? I've got mine on a seatpost mount which is ok, but I have to remove it when I do kiddy wee-hoo trailer hauling. Kinda don't want to fender mount either.

Any ideas?

Wed, 02/17/2016 - 16:36
jdsmooth
jdsmooth's picture
(Reply to #297)

I use a little fender hanger from VO:

Down at the droop out eyelets is a good spot, or up higher on seat stay braze ons.

Five-foot drops at speed on unstable terrain? Yep.

Wed, 02/17/2016 - 16:53
VT regularbike
VT regularbike's picture

We scrap tons of aluminum angle bracket at work most only drilled with .128" pilot holes. If you give me an idea of the dimensions you want I can probably find something. Cost of shipping.

Miguel wrote:
i mean as long as we're spending money, lets just set the wallet on fire ok

Wed, 02/17/2016 - 17:22
tamaso
tamaso's picture
(Reply to #299)

Mine is mounted via similar little bracket to the fender boss at the rear wishbone stay, between the fender and frame. Works well, allows me to remove fenders if I like and still have light. Probably won't buy you much more room for trailer mount than the seatpost location.

https://flic.kr/p/ARvD1A

Wed, 02/17/2016 - 17:27
heavymetal
heavymetal's picture

Some good ideas, cheers. I think I have something like that fender bracket, and might be able to modify something to work of the fender boss a la tamaso.
Thanks VT, but shipping to prison island aint worth it, I should be able to scrounge something locally.

Thanks tarck hivemind.

Wed, 02/17/2016 - 17:46

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